Keep St. Louis Weird
Miss me? Thanks to a death in the family, I've been out of touch and out of town the past little while, and am just now getting home and catching up. If you had tried to get my attention at any point in the past week and it didn't work, try again.
I spent the weekend and a little in the St. Louis area for the burial and visiting family, and managed to snag a free afternoon. Before leaving, I asked a St. Louis native for some destinations, and was pointed towards the University City Loop area. When my mother suggested visiting the Arch (again), I was therefore prepared for an escape, having verified with a cousin that I could get to U.City by rail (It's almost like a civilized country or something...), and was dropped off by the family caravan on their way to the arch.
The St. Louis metrolink is quite nice, from my limited experience. As I walked up to the ticket kiosk at the park-and-ride station in the Illinois exurbs, the PA announced a 30 second warning for the next inbound train; if a brand-new user can have a ticket and be on the train in 30 seconds, I consider the system to be fairly well-designed from a user interface standpoint. (Granted, I didn't stop to figure out whether this was a train I actually wanted to be on - but it turns out there are only two lines, in a Y-shape, so it's hard to go wrong.)
By the time I hit the arch area stop (in about 75% of the time it took for the family to get there and park), the train was full, at 2pm on a Saturday, with about 20-30 people getting on and a similar number off at each downtown/University City stop, with riders a mix of the airport-bound, tourist types, and on their way to work, judging by dress and accessories. I hopped off at the node of the Y to ask a security guard which leg I needed to be on (the one I got off, just one stop further), and had about a 12 minute wait until the next train. All in all, a pretty nice system. (Yes, I travel to other cities so that I can marvel at their mass transit. Shut it.)
The U.City Loop area (which seemed pretty linear to me) is St. Louis' version of Ann Arbor's South U/State/Liberty area, or Austin's drag on Guadalupe Street, though without an overt University presence right on the commercial street. (Washington University appears to be a few blocks south.) Also like the drag or South U, the loop appears to be headed over the hill of the gentrification roller coaster. Granted, there's the (not real securely, ahem) gated neighborhood adjacent to the loop that appears to be pretty old gentry, which I would assume to be the traditional faculty neighborhood, but the newish Starbucks, condominium loft advertisements, and "coming soon: the shoppes at delmar loop" development signs on vacant lots all point in the direction of imminent rent hikes. (Washington U has apparently been buying up rental housing in the area to preserve an affordable housing supply for students.)
The sense of impending ritz did not, however, prevent me from enjoring the services of several independent local businesses. Special praise goes to (and my money went to) the very no-nonsense Meshuggah Cafe, where my coffee was accompanied by discussion of a ballot proposal aimed at preventing the local hospital from building a parking structure in a park (some things you can't get away from); Subterranean Books, which doesn't have nearly the selection in my favorite sections that Shaman Drum can boast, but gets points for carrying both used and new books and for hosting a craft consignment area of Shadow Art Fair worthy items; and Vintage Vinyl, which is definitely among the best record stores I've been in. After browsing a bit and resisting various temptations, I sauntered up to a trio of employees. "Hiya, I'm from Detroit. If I take home one local album from St. Louis, what should it be?" The three of them, in unison, without hesitation, "Sex Robots!" Okay, I'm sold.
Sudden pouring rain proceeded to cut short my wanderings, and the family called, finished with the arch, to tell me they were going to come meet me for dinner at the root beer brewery, so I sacked out under an awning to read the Wendell Berry I'd picked up at Subterranean.
The final discovery of the evening - and perhaps not *quite* enough to make me up and move to St. Louis, but close - was finding out that St. Louis is within New Belgium's distribution area. That's right, boys and girls, in St Louis you can get Fat Tire on tap. So sorry, Oberon, but you'll never be better than second place with me.
Ann Arbor comparisons
And, oh so conveniently, the SubBooks blog provides further grounds for the gentrification comparison:
I was emailed a notice for a public hearing to consider conditional use permits to put a Noodles & Co and a Chipotle Mexican Grill into the Streetside space. WTF? So Streetside disappears and the replacements are two chain restaurants? Who’s the genius who thought that up? Clearly, I am not happy about this. There are much better options.
Anyone else for whom this is bothersome is encouraged to attend the hearing. It is this Wednesday, Feb. 28 at 6:30pm in the EOC room in the basement of U. City City Hall, 6801 Delmar.
If you are excited by the arrival of these two horribly bland businesses in the Loop, please don’t come.
(Yes, that's right. In St. Louis, not only do the indie bookstores have blogs, but the indie bookstores discuss development on their blogs. And, they link to a St. Louis blogger who spent this weekend in Detroit - and reciprocates my critique of their mass transit system with some words for ours.)
I have not, however, encountered any local commentary on the inherent humanity of 4 story buildings or statements that U.City is the perfect size and should not grow or change at all - allowing me to conclude that U.City is still in an earlier stage of gentrifying than Ann Arbor.
st louis
I was in St Louis last Friday. It's a good city, what I've seen of it (half dozen trips in the past year or two, though never very adventuresome).
I'm actually going to be in Ann Arbor this coming Friday. I have an as-yet unplanned plan to meet up with Andrew Brix at some point.
I've only been to St. Louis once
for a planning history conference, but I loved it. We stayed near the Delmar neighborhood and I thought, "Damn, St. Louis rocks!" But I like all the old industrial cities.
I'll forgive your misplaced beer priorities by noting that it's totally badass your grandfather was a brewer/distributor.
"Misplaced"?
Have you *tried* Fat Tire?
Also, I think our grandfather's role was limited to salesman/distributor, not so much on the brewing side.
In San Francisco, I think.
I'll refresh my memory on a Denver trip this summer (unless I run across something 'round here).
In the meantime...
Please feel free to submit an alternative that you prefer to Fat Tire, so that I can compare them myself.
Fat Tire?
I hope you at least got to try Schlafly, St. Louis's best indie brew (still technically a "microbrew"? Probably). It blows Fat Tire away. Seriously.
The Loop is OK, but it's definitely the trendier part of town. Next time make sure you hit South Grand and Cherokee St. for the real weirdness. ;)
But until then, to satisfy your thirst for STL weirdness, be sure to visit out local award-winning videoblog, Lo-Fi Saint Louis: www.lofistl.com
And a great new local message board championing local weirdness (formerly the home of the Lowlife Guide to St. Louis) is at www.stlouielouie.com
Stay sick,
kopper
'65 Barracuda
South St. Louis
GaragePunk.com
schlafly
I did, our first night there, when we had dinner at Generic Americana Restaurant. "What do you have on tap?" "Bud Lite, Miller Lite, Blue Lite, and Schlafly." Schlafly, obviously. And I didn't even know what it was.
Judging from context, Schlafly reminds me of Yuengling or Shiner - a good, drinkable, local favorite. (What's Michigan's equivalent? Bell's Amber?) I wasn't totally in love with it, but I'd happily have it again.
Sometime when I'm not having most of my time sucked up by family and a funeral, I'll have to go back for a more recreational visit. I'll have to watch for an Amtrak sale to come up - I'd rather spend 12 hours on a train and in Chicago than 9 in a car.
I'm sure we all saw this article
in the New York Times with the great shout out to the planner who successfully challenged the Census estimate of the population and is ready to do it again.
"Mr. Stanley, the city planner, had all this in mind when he challenged the Census Bureau’s 2003 population estimate. St. Louis won that dispute, successfully arguing that it did not lose 17,000 people between 2000 and 2003 — rather 50. “That’s five-zero,” said Mr. Stanley, a Canadian by birth with great love for St. Louis.
This year, he said he had a feeling that the bureau would say St. Louis was down again. And it did, giving the city an estimated population of 347,180 — slightly less than the 2000 population count of 348,200.
That is just plain wrong, Mr. Stanley said, adding that his challenge of the estimate is ready to go."

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